Among the most classic salmon flies and patterns that most fly fishers recognize, even if they don’t fish for salmon, are Jock Scott and Green Highlander. However, many are also familiar with names like Black Doctor, Silver Doctor, Blue Doctor, Durham Ranger, and Thunder & Lightning. What many don’t know is that all these latter patterns were created by the same person.
His name was James Wright, born in 1829 in Sprouston. His father was a fly tyer, and James learned the craft early, eventually making it his profession. Living in a village situated right next to the River Tweed gave him the perfect opportunity to test his creations. The effectiveness of his flies and the quality of his craftsmanship became widely renowned, attracting customers from across the British Isles. Not only is he the mastermind behind many classic salmon flies, but he also created the trout fly Greenwell’s Glory.
Silver Grey is another of James Wright’s patterns. As the name suggests, its silver and grey composition has made it an excellent fly for fair-weather fishing, responsible for catching numerous salmon over the years. The pattern appears in both Kelson’s book The Salmon Fly and Pryce-Tannatt’s How to Dress Salmon Flies, though with slight differences, particularly in the wing composition. At its core, the fly features a silver body with a badger-colored body hackle and a gray mottled front hackle.
Another classic salmonfly in the silver grey colorscheme is the Mar Lodge originally invented by John Lamon and also appears in Pryce Tannats book.
This color combination has been embraced by modern fly tyers, who have adapted the pattern into tube flies. In this article, we’ll demonstrate how to tie a Silver Grey tube fly easily and how to modify it to suit various fishing conditions. The foundation of this fly is the FlexiTube system from Pro Sportfisher. The FlexiTube is a plastic tube designed with two different diameters on the same tube, offering fly tyers a range of possibilities.
A “classic” tube fly can be tied with the body and body hackle on the thicker part of the tube and finished with the front hackle and wing on the thinner part. The thicker section can simply be trimmed to achieve the desired body length.
The second, simpler option involves using the thicker tube as a hook holder, while the thinner section is used to slide on a metal tube of the desired shape, weight, length, and color. Pro Sportfisher offers several options for this technique.
- FlexiWeight: A simple metal tube available in various lengths and weights, as well as different colors like gold, silver, copper, and black.
- Drop Weight: Ideal for creating smaller tube flies that still need to sink quickly, this compact, drop-shaped metal tube provides concentrated weight. It comes in gold, silver, copper, black, and ultra-orange. The heavier end of the Drop Weight is positioned nearest the fly’s head.
- Bullet Weight: This type concentrates the weight toward the tube’s rear end. Bullet Weights are slightly smaller and lighter than Drop Weights but are available in the same colors.
- Raw Weight: Compact tungsten weights that can be used alone or combined with other weights for precise sinking control.
To complement the weights that slide onto the FlexiTube before tying the hackle and wing, Pro Sportfisher also offers Pro Conehead and Pro Ultra Sonic Disc. These are attached once the fly is finished and serve as the fly’s head. The Ultra Sonic Disc is a perforated metal disc that displaces water during fishing, creating movement and sound—factors that can make a significant difference in many situations.
As you can see, the possibilities for variation are endless, offering combinations for every type of salmon fishing. Below, we demonstrate how to tie a Silver Grey on the Pro FlexiTube.
Silver Grey Pro Tube Fly Tying Instructions
Materials List:
- Tube: Pro Sportfisher FlexiTube Clear and FlexiWeight Silver 30mm
- Thread: White GSP
- Hackle: Grizzly Soft Hackle and Natural Grey Ringneck Rump Hackle
- Wings: White Marble Fox and Natural Silver Fox with a few strands of Silver Angel Hair
- Topping: Peacock Herl
- Sides: Pro Jungle Cock XS
- Head: Pro Cone Silver S
Step-by-Step Instructions
Cut off the thicker end of the FlexiTube, leaving enough length to act as a hook holder. Slide the FlexiWeight onto the thinner end of the tube, all the way to the junction. Secure the tube in the vise, then start the thread in front of the FlexiWeight.
Select a Grizzly Soft Hackle and strip most of the fluff from the stem. Tie in the hackle by the tip and wrap it around the tube 3-4 times.
Prepare a small clump of White Marble Fox hair. Comb out the underfur and shorter strands to create a clean wing. Tie it on top of the tube, ensuring it is about 4-5 cm long. Spread the hair evenly across the tube with your thumb nail, then trim the excess.
Add a few strands of Silver Angel Hair on top of the wing. Fold the strands over and tie them down securely. Trim the Angel Hair to the same length as the Marble Fox wing.
Take a Natural Grey Ringneck Rump Hackle, remove the fluff, and tie it in by the tip. Wrap the hackle 2-3 times around the tube.
Prepare a bundle of Natural Silver Fox hair and tie it on top of the first wing. This layer should be slightly longer (6-7 cm). Trim the waste neatly.
Cut 3-4 strands of Peacock Herl and tie them on top of the wing. To shape the herls to follow the wing’s curve, press your thumb nail against the ends to create a slight bend.
Attach one Pro Jungle Cock eye on each side of the fly.
Finish the head by whip finishing the thread and trimming the excess. Apply a drop of superglue to the head and slide the Pro Conehead up to the wing.
Cut off the remaining plastic tube, leaving about 1-2 mm protruding. Use a lighter to carefully melt the end and seal it to the Conehead.
Your Silver Grey tube fly is now complete. Here’s how it looks from above.
This versatile and effective pattern is perfect for salmon fishing in clear, bright conditions. Try customizing the materials and proportions to suit your specific fishing environment!
Happy tying and tight lines – Håkan Karsnäser.